Moccasin type shoe



Sept. 21, 1943. w. BRAUN MOCCASIN TYPE SHOE Filed July 21, 1941 In I,

IIIIIIIIII INVENTOR Arron/vs).

Patented Sept. 21, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,329,819 Mocoasm TYPE snon Walter Braun, Los Angeles, Calif. I Application July 21, 1941, Serial No. 403,295

1 Claim.

This invention relates to footwear and particularly to a moccasin type shoe or similar article. In a shoe of this character simplicity of line with a primitive style effect is desired. Comfort is essential, and this must be based on fit, and flexibility in the forepart of the shoe, as well as cushioning of the sole and heel portions. Sturdiness is likewise essential, especially when shoes of this character are used for street, school, and sport wear. The conventional moccasin shoe lacksfit, cushioning, sturdiness and foot support.

It is an object of my invention to produce a moccasin type shoe embodying maximum flexibility in the forepart of the shoe, achieved in part by a novel pattern of upper and insole cut as a single piece, to which is stitched flat the edge covering for a platform.

Another object is to produce a shoe of this character in which a first class fit is obtained through employing an upper and insole cut as a single piece in a novel pattern.

A further object is to provide in such a shoe a platform preferably of cushioning material and incorporating a heel raise to support the arch of the wearer. The latter may be tapered, so that the outsole of the shoe is fiat, thus generally adhering to the traditional appearance of a moccasin. v

A more particular object is to produce a moccasin type shoe comprising an upper and insole cut as a single piece, folded around a line representing the outline.of the insole and closed to form the upper, a platform cover stitched to the upper and insole to form a pocket, a platform filler (preferably cushioning material) in the pocket, the lower edges of the cover being turned under and secured to the lower face of the' platform filler, and an outsole attached to the lower face of the turned under edges of the cover and preferably also to the lower face of the platform.

These and other objects of my invention will become more apparent from a further consideration of the descriptionand drawing.

In the drawing:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe my invention.

Figure 2 is a top plan view of the same.

Figure 3 is a vertical section taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 2.

embodying Figure 4 is a cross section taken on the line o 4-4 of Figure 3.

Figure 5 illustrates a pattern of the piece cut for the upper and insole.

Figure 6 illustrates a pattern of the insert or plug used to complete the upper.

My shoe, designated I 0, comprises an upper ll, an insole l2, a covered platform l3, and an outsole M.

The insole is cut as a part of the upper, its outline being shown' particularly in Figure 5; and by the term insole I refer to that part of the shoe which occupies the position of a conventional insole. Being of a soft, pliable leather or other material suitable for the upper, it is relatively thin and exceptionally flexible, and its character fulfills the function of a sock lining as well as an insole. I gain all necessary support and surface wearing qualities from other parts of the shoe, as explained.

The pattern i5 is a single sheet of material out so that the following essential features are present: an area representing the, insole l2, and upper sections l6 and H. The upper section I6 is severed from the insole section l2 as indicated at the irregular slot l8, beginning at a point A toward the forepart of the insole. This is on the side of greatest curve, and is important to obtaining correct fit in the instep. The section I! remains joined to the insole as far back as the point B in the heel portion. Sections l6 and I! are formed withheel edges l9 and 20, a toe tab 2|, and edges 22 and 23 to be joined therewith. Optionally, depending upon the style, are provided gore tabs 24. In the style chosen for illustration 1 punch holes 25 (for lacing in the plug shown in Figure 6).

After the pattern I5 is cut, I mark the outline for the insole I2, as shown in broken lines in Figure 5. If a trim or collar is to be used, they may next be sewed on. The next step is to close the two front seams between the tab 2! and the edges 22 and 23, with the raw edges exposed, as at 26, and the inside smooth and unbroken.

While the pattern I 5 lies fiat I stitch on a platform cover 26a, which may be a single strip of sufficient length, width and of proper configuration to enclose the edges of the entire platform, or it may be formed in a toe strip and a separate heel strip. At this stage of manufacture, I stitch the platform cover strip along the marked insole lines only, not along the edge from A to B.

I then join the edges l9 and 20 by a back seam 21. A counter 28 may th'en have its lateral edges stitched to the upper l6, ll. The platform cover is then stitched fromA to B on the upper only, followed by closing A to B. Figure 3 of the drawing actually illustrates a single line of stitching, as the detail of a second line of stitching would tend to obscure the drawing. It may be assumed that the second line of stitching is substantially superimposed upon the first, in which case it would not appear, or optionally the second line of stitching may be above or below the line illustrated. It is much easier to do this in two operations as suggested, than to try to handle three thicknesses of materials at one time.

If the style shown here is used, the next operation would be to stitch in the goring 29 on the tabs 26.

The plug 30, perforated to correspond to the perforations 25 in the upper, is laced in to complete the upper. I prefer this construction, as it makes the upper pattern easier to cut and finish, and imparts to the shoe a typical moccasin appearance, but the style of upper may vary, and the plug may be eliminated.

The shoe is then put on a last, and retained there for the inserting of the platform cushion, and heel raise if the latter is used, and for the cementing of the outsole.

The platform illustrated comprises a pad 3| of cushioning material such as felt, sisal, rubber,

cork, composition or any other suitable material,

extending the full length of the shoe, and a tapered heel raise 32 resting .on the pad. The heel raise is preferably, but not necessarily, of material having characteristics similar to those of the pad. It does not matter whether the platform is made in the manner illustrated, or is a single member, or a multiplicity of members, or a mere filler, so long as it provides a flexible cushion in the forepart, and a support in the heel section, of the shoe. It is cemented to the lower face of the insole, and the cover or covers are turned down and the lower edges turned under and cemented to the lower edge face of the platform.

The outsole I4 is then cemented on.

Although I have herein shown and described my invention in what I have conceived to be the most practical and preferred embodiment, it

is recognized that departures may be made therev the upper on one side from within the scope of my invention, which is not to be limited to the details disclosed herein but is to be accorded the full scope of the claims so as to embrace any and all equivalent structures.

I believe that I am the first to force-last a. moccasin type sh'oe, that is to say inserting the last in the formed upper and insole which readily yield to the shape of the last, and while on the last assembling the platform filler within the edge cover, securing the edge cover to the filler and then attaching the outsole to produce a fitted shoe in which the upper and insole is 'in one piece. This is an important step -in the method contributing to the fit and quality of the shoe, not heretofore achieved in moccasin type shoes.

An important feature of the construction is that the upper and insole are formed of one piece, the insole being integrally connected to from the toe to the heel at point B and on the other side from the toe to the break line or ball indicated at point A, the free edges of the upper and insole being brought togeth'er and secured as described.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

A shoe of the fitted moccasin type wherein the upper and insole are one piece, said insole being integrally connected to the upper on'one side from the toe to the heel and on theother side from the toe to the break line, the free edges of the upper and insole being brought together and secured, an edge cover for a platform sole stitched to the outer edges of said insole and extending downwardly from said insole to form a pocket, a filler positioned in said pocket, the extending edges of said cover being folded beneath said filler, and an outsole secured to said filler to cover said folded edges.

WALTER BRAUN. 

